The difference between a dress that looks "fine" and one that looks like it was made for you often comes down to tailoring. Off-the-rack clothing is designed to fit a standardised body that doesn't actually exist—most women have unique proportions that benefit from some adjustment. Understanding when alterations make sense, which modifications are possible, and how to work with a tailor empowers you to achieve perfect fit from imperfect starting points.
This guide covers everything you need to know about dress alterations, from simple hemming to more complex structural changes.
When Are Alterations Worth It?
Not every dress is a good candidate for alteration. Before investing in tailoring, consider these factors:
Good Candidates for Alteration
- Quality pieces: Dresses made from quality fabrics with good construction are worth tailoring
- Investment pieces: Formal dresses, work staples, and items you'll wear repeatedly
- Dresses that fit well in some areas but not others: If the shoulders and bust fit but the waist needs taking in, that's an easy fix
- Dresses that are too long: Hemming is one of the simplest and most affordable alterations
- Vintage or secondhand finds: Often excellent quality but may need adjustment for modern fit preferences
Poor Candidates for Alteration
- Cheap, fast fashion: If the dress costs less than the alteration, it's rarely worth it
- Dresses that don't fit in the shoulders: Shoulder alterations are complex and expensive
- Dresses that are too small: Making things larger is much harder than making them smaller
- Heavily embellished items: Beading, sequins, and embroidery complicate alterations significantly
- Trend-driven pieces: Don't invest in tailoring something you'll only wear briefly
💡 Golden Rule
A dress should fit properly in the shoulders and bust before you commit to other alterations. These areas are the most difficult and expensive to alter—if they don't fit, the dress probably isn't right for you.
Common Dress Alterations Explained
Hemming
Hemming adjusts the length of a dress and is the most common alteration. It's usually straightforward and affordable.
- Difficulty: Easy
- Cost: $15-40 depending on complexity
- Considerations: Curved hems, lined dresses, and embellished hems cost more. Very full skirts may need the hem circumference reduced as well as length shortened.
Taking In (Making Smaller)
Reducing the size of a dress at specific points—waist, hips, bust.
- Difficulty: Moderate to complex
- Cost: $30-100+ depending on extent
- Considerations: Works best for minor adjustments (1-2 sizes at most). Major reductions can distort the dress's proportions and design.
Letting Out (Making Larger)
Enlarging a dress using existing seam allowance.
- Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
- Cost: $40-80+
- Considerations: Only possible if there's adequate seam allowance. Most modern dresses have minimal allowance—you might gain half a size at most. Old fabric lines may show.
Strap Adjustment
Shortening or repositioning dress straps.
- Difficulty: Easy
- Cost: $15-30
- Considerations: Simple for standard straps, more complex for decorative or attached elements.
Bust Adjustments
Adding or altering bust darts, adjusting neckline, or modifying cups in structured dresses.
- Difficulty: Complex
- Cost: $50-150+
- Considerations: Requires skilled tailoring. Best done by someone experienced with formalwear or lingerie construction.
Waist Definition
Adding or adjusting darts, taking in side seams at the waist.
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Cost: $30-60
- Considerations: One of the most transformative alterations for creating a flattering fit.
🔑 Key Takeaway
It's almost always easier to make a garment smaller than larger. When in doubt between two sizes, choose the larger one—a skilled tailor can take it in, but adding fabric is often impossible or visible.
Finding a Good Tailor
A skilled tailor is worth their weight in gold. Here's how to find one:
Where to Look
- Ask friends, family, or colleagues for recommendations
- Check online reviews (Google, Facebook, local forums)
- Ask at bridal shops—they often know skilled local tailors
- Dry cleaners sometimes offer alterations, though quality varies
What to Look For
- Experience with the type of garment you're altering (casual vs. formal)
- Willingness to pin and show you adjustments before cutting
- Clear communication about what's possible and what isn't
- Clean, organised workspace
- Reasonable but not suspiciously cheap pricing
Red Flags
- Promises everything is possible with no caveats
- Won't give price estimates upfront
- Rushes the fitting process
- Has consistently bad reviews
- Cannot articulate what they'll do and why
Working with Your Tailor
At the First Appointment
- Wear appropriate undergarments—the bra you'll wear with the dress
- Bring the shoes you plan to wear (or shoes of similar height)
- Come with clean, unwrinkled garment
- Be prepared to explain how you want the dress to fit and for what occasions
- Ask questions about the process and timeline
Communication Tips
- Be specific: "I want the hem to hit at my knee" is clearer than "a bit shorter"
- Bring photos of fits you admire if helpful
- Mention any comfort concerns (ability to sit, move, breathe)
- Ask to see the proposed alterations pinned before any cutting
- Don't be afraid to speak up if something doesn't look right
📝 Timing Note
Allow adequate time for alterations. Simple hemming might take a few days; complex alterations can take weeks. For important events, start the process at least 4-6 weeks ahead, more if the alterations are extensive.
DIY Alterations: What You Can Do at Home
Some simple adjustments don't require professional help:
Safe for Beginners
- Temporary hemming: Hemming tape or fashion tape for one-time solutions
- Simple strap shortening: With basic sewing skills
- Adding fashion tape for gaping necklines: Quick fix for styling issues
- Small button and hook replacements: Securing loose closures
Leave to Professionals
- Any structural alterations
- Expensive or sentimental garments
- Anything involving zippers (especially invisible zippers)
- Alterations on delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon
- Beaded, sequined, or heavily embellished items
Alteration Budgeting
Build alteration costs into your shopping budget. A rough guide:
- Basic hem: $15-40
- Take in sides: $30-60
- Strap adjustment: $15-30
- Add bust darts: $40-60
- Shorten and add new zipper: $60-100
- Major reconstruction: $100-200+
Rule of thumb: Basic alterations shouldn't exceed 20-30% of the garment's cost. If they do, reconsider whether the dress is right for you.
Final Thoughts
Tailoring transforms off-the-rack clothing into custom-fitted pieces that flatter your unique body. A dress that fits perfectly looks more expensive, photographs better, and makes you feel more confident. While not every garment warrants alteration, investing in tailoring for quality pieces you love and wear often pays dividends in both appearance and longevity.
For guidance on choosing dresses with good alteration potential, see our online shopping guide and fabric guide.